Botswana Travel Guide
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Nxabega
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Botswana Travel Guide

Nxabega



Built on the site of the original Abu Camp, Nxabega (GPS: NXABEG 19°29.080’S; 22°47.670’E) is the most northerly of the camps in NG27. It’s about an hour’s drive north of Kanana (though only around 12km as the birds fly!) and 11km south-southeast of Xigera, which is in Moremi. However, for most of the year Xigera is inaccessible by land from Nxabega because of the Boro River.
Nxabega first opened in 1997, designed simply but with style, like its sister-lodge, Sandibe. However, in September 1999 the whole of the central lounge/dining area burnt to the ground, along with the closest tent (number seven). These were rebuilt and re-opened six months later. This seems to have combined in Nxabega the benefits of a new camp, like design lessons learned from the previous one, with an experienced team of staff.
Nxabega’s new lounge/dining area is constructed on a grand scale from wood, stone and a high shaggy thatched roof – around a huge jackalberry tree. Inside, it is swish but understated; with clean lines and teak-panelled walls. The large dining table area stands under two electric candelabras. Nearby in the lounge are two separate groups of luxurious settees. Heavy glass-topped coffee tables rest on game-skin patchworks, supporting the odd picture book, cigar boxes and a backgammon set. It’s comfortably done with style and the odd striking African artefact (sadly of West rather than southern African origin!). The bar is almost hidden, but stocked exceedingly comprehensively with obscure liqueurs, imported spirits and good wines. (Unlimited house wine, beers and soft drinks are normally included in the rate, but if you want to drink their cellar of vintage wines dry, they’ll charge extra!)
The ten rooms are high quality, large tents raised up on platforms about a metre above the ground, overlooking the floodplain. All are well spread out, with a discreet 30–40m between them. Number one is on the far right of the lodge (as you look over the water); numbers six and seven are on either side of the main area; and number ten (the honeymoon suite) is past the large swimming pool on the left side. Each has a shaded veranda with table and chairs outside. Inside, twin or double beds stand on a smooth wooden floor, draped with quality cotton sheets, down duvets and assorted pillows.
These tents are furnished well – with chairs, a dressing table, wardrobe and bedside lamps (powered by a solar-powered battery system). At the back of each tent is a small en-suite bathroom with a flush toilet, hot shower (heated by a gas geyser), and a washbasin.
Activities include day and night 4WD game drives, mokoro excursions and boat trips (good fishing is possible on the Boro River). Nxabega’s been constructed with care and generally seems to be run with a higher complement of staff than most lodges (average two staff per guest). This gives it an air of quality. The food is particularly good, but what I appreciated more was the flexibility that visitors have over everything, from the timings of breakfast and lunch, to the scheduling of activities. These are seldom regimented, and the staff make real efforts to organise activities to suit you. If you’ve ever wanted to do a late-night drive after dinner to look for aardvarks, or a mid-day boating trip ... Nxabega is a good choice!


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