Opened in May 2000, Kanana is built a few kilometres from the site of an old basic bushcamp known as Khurunxaragha Camp (which was formerly used by Wilderness for their mobile safaris, and was located near the present airfield). Kanana stands at roughly the centre of NG27 (GPS: KANANA 19°32.577’S; 22°51.731’E), and overlooks the reedbeds of the Xudum River. This gives the camp access to a permanent, deep-water channel for boating all year.
Accommodation is in one of eight very comfortable tents that spread out on the left side of the main area. These are separated by about 20m, and so even the furthest room isn’t miles from the centre of camp. These have sewn-in insect-proof groundsheets and six large mesh windows – even the front of the tent can be opened up into a large mesh area, giving a wonderful airy feel when it’s warm.
Inside, the floor’s teak, covered with sisal matting. These tents are comfortable and well furnished with a wooden wardrobe and a luggage rack, dressing table and chairs, and plenty of thoughtful touches. The raffia bedside tables have electric lights powered by solar-powered batteries – the camp’s generator is usually only switched on during the day. Twin or double beds have good-quality cotton sheets and down pillows with blankets. A canvas divider separates the en-suite flush toilet, washbasin and shower (very efficient too – hot water from individual gas geysers).
Outside on the shaded veranda, to the front and side of the tents, there’s a table and comfy chairs, and all the tents face the river from under a cover of riverine trees – jackalberries, knobthorns and sausage trees. These are linked by sandy paths, illuminated at night by electric lanterns, one of which passes the small, circular waist-deep plunge pool.
Kanana’s main area is a U-shaped wooden building with a large tree in the centre and a long dining room, several small lounge areas (one with a small library), a bar and down nearer the water, a ‘sandpit’ for fires.
Activities possible here include boat trips (including fishing for bream or catfish), mokoro excursions (often including short island walks) and game drives. Though their comfortable vehicles have been carefully thought out, with canvas pockets for binoculars and lots of space, the camp’s strongest suit is its mokoro trips. It’s particularly convenient that when water levels are good, these can be launched directly from the side of the lodge’s main area, and into the reedbeds which surround the Xudum River.
As with most camps, Kanana works on the basis of one long safari activity after breakfast, then siesta time after lunch, and another afternoon/evening activity after afternoon tea, before dinner. Sometimes a late night drive is possible after dinner.