(8 tents) Contact Ker and Downey Safaris
The contrast between Machaba (GPS: MACHAB) and its neighbour is striking – despite Machaba being only about 3km northeast of Khwai River Lodge.

Machaba feels like one of the Okavango's last old-style camps, with traditional tents on the ground amidst a rather lovely glade of riverine forest, with old knobthorne, red bushwillow, raintree and leadwoods above and around it.

Each green canvas Meru-style tent stands on a solid concrete deck, with a shaded veranda and deck chairs at the front. Inside there's coir matting on the floors, a little cloth-shaded wardrobe and twin beds separated by a little table – on which there's usually a cool container of drinking water and a battery-powered lantern. Each has a flush toilet, shower, a washbasin and a shower at the back (hot water from efficient individual gas geysers.) These tents have no electricity, but the camp's generator can charge video batteries.

Similarly the canvas-roofed lounge at the camp's centre is equally simple, with a small dining and bar area, a cozy lounge, and a very good, well-maintained 'sightings board'. This shows how frequently the big game species (lion, leopard, cheetah, wild dog, buffalo) have been seen, and when, plus bird charts and maps. The lack of data for elephants simply demonstrates that they're almost always around.

Slightly east, about 1km downstream, Machaba has a game-viewing hide overlooking the river at which guests can be dropped off, and then collected again at a pre-arranged time. Other activities at Machaba centre around two game drives per day. The first usually starts after a light breakfast, returning in time for a late-morning brunch. The second begins after afternoon tea, and then leaves the park around sunset. Last time I visited, Machaba was being run temporarily by Bruce Cantle, whose experience of, and enthusiasm for, the area made it a lovely place to stay. The tents were looking old, but these are due to be replaced for 2002.