Botswana Travel Guide
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Khwai River Lodge
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Botswana Travel Guide

Khwai River Lodge



(15 canvas rooms) Contact Gametrackers
I've very fond memories of the original Khwai River Lodge (GPS: KHWAIL) which once stood here, with understated little bungalows dotted around amongst the leadwood trees on the edge of the river's floodplain. It was one of the Okavango's oldest lodges, and full of character. Now this has sadly been demolished, apart from the basic structure of its old office that has been preserved as a small museum and curio shop. Around this is now an opulent Gametrackers lodge, built between about December 1998 and May 1999 and modelled on the same design as that used for Savute Elephant Camp.

At its heart is a central area, which is slightly raised on a timber platform and topped by an enormous thatched roof. This encloses a lounge, a bar and a dining room. The lounge has a fireplace with leather surround, chess sets, a TV with a library of wildlife videos, comfy couches and a small library. Next to this is a dining area where candles light long, wooden tables for stylish dinners – adjacent to a wide area of decking overlooking the narrow, shallow river valley. There's a central fireplace, for drinks outside, and a huge swimming pool built into the decking. Next to the main complex, an adjoining raised observation deck with thatched roof shelters a small telescope; it's a good spot for game viewing or perhaps the occasional intimate private dinner.

The lodge's 15 canvas rooms are really far too opulent to be called tents. All are built on high timber platforms, facing the river valley. Because these are spread out in a line, each a distance from the next, the camp stretches for over a kilometre in length and the furthest tents are a significant walk from the central lounge. Each large platform has a wide veranda at the front, with safari chairs overlooking the river, and a huge canvas structure measuring about 18m x 6m.

Inside, each 'tent' is fully furnished with polished wooden floors, rugs and plenty of proper, comfy furniture – not just the usual safari chair or two. Twin three-quarter-sized beds, which are usually pushed together, have high-quality cotton bedding, bedside tables and twin (battery-powered) lamps. The beds are surrounded by mosquito netting, and surmounted by two air-conditioning units which, when I last visited in October, fought a valiant but losing battle to keep the room cool. At the back of the tent is a toilet and a large (two-person) shower, each behind a wooden door. The lodge's build-quality is very high, and clearly no expense has been spared – though there seems to have been little attempt to blend the lodge into the surrounding area.

Activities here focus on two game drives per day. The morning drive usually commences after a light breakfast, and returns in the late morning for a substantial brunch. The afternoon drive commences after afternoon tea, and aims to leave the park as it closes, at sunset. Driving at night in the park is not allowed, though a spotlight will sometimes be put on when the vehicles have passed over the bridge and are heading for home.


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