I'm not aware of any landing strips in this area, so to get here you need at least one fully equipped 4WD, with all your food and water. There is water usually available at Xai Xai village, and a small very basic shop at Qangwa, but it's better to bring with you everything that you might need.

As with any tracks in the Kalahari, and especially those that are rarely used, a major danger is fire caused by grass seeds and stems blocking up your vehicle's radiator, or collecting near its exhaust system. If you're driving here, especially during the first few months of the year, you must take steps to prevent this.

There are two roads which head west from the main Shakawe-Sehithwa road, and then loop around and join up with each other around the Aha Hills. Both are very long, very sandy and hard going, though navigation is not difficult. Here I'll briefly describe both:

The northern route

About 300m north of the centre of Nokaneng there's a track heading west
(GPS: GTURN2). This is the longer and the sandier of the two routes, but there's relatively little mud this way so if rains have been heavy it may be the easiest route.

From Nokaneng, it twists and turns quite a lot but after a little over 120km you'll reach the tiny village of (GPS: QANGWA). This name is sometimes seen spelt Xangwa, or even Gcangwa.

From there one track heads west towards Namibia, ultimately to Tsumkwe (GPS: TSUMKW). You take the one which leads southwest for over 10km to another small village, Dobe (GPS: DOBEVI). From there the track heads due south, and actually picks its way through the Aha Hills. It passes west of the small group of hills which contain Waxhu North Cave (GPS: WAXHUN), and east of the main range of hills, within which is found the Waxhu South Cave (GPS: WAXHUS). Finally it reaches the village of Xai Xia (GPS: XAIXAI) after about 37km.

In some literature you'll find this designated as 'Nxainxai' or 'CaeCae' or, more recently, /Xai/Xai. However you want to spell it, this is one of the largest villages in the area with a population of about 300–400 Ju/'hoansi San people, and perhaps 50 Herero (Mbanderu) people. Here there is a borehole, a small school, a basic health post, and small administrative centre for the people.

From there the route turns east, becoming the route described below which ultimately ends on the main road near Tsau. About 10km east of Xai Xai you pass a clear right turn (GPS: GTURN3) which takes almost 30km to reach the Gcwihaba Hills and Cave (GPS: GCWIHA).

The southern route

Although it can be confusing to locate the start of this route in the east, once you're on it, this is the best route out to the hills and caves unless there has been very heavy rain in the area.

Around Tsau (GPS: TSAU) there are a number of tracks heading roughly west to northwest. Some of these will fizzle out at smallholdings, bush homesteads, and villages whilst some join into one road which heads out towards the hills. The turning onto one of the easiest tracks (GPS: GTURN1) is found about 10.5km north of the centre of Tsau, whilst another cuts off the main road about 1.5km from Tsau.

During the dry season, the first few hours from Tsau are generally fairly easy driving, as the hard, compacted track gently descends into the fossil river valley. However, during the rains a number of wide, shallow pans hold water here, turning it into a series of connected mud-holes and a challenging route even for experienced drivers. (Hence in the rains you might consider taking the longer northern route instead.) After that, the country becomes rolling dune-land with thick sand, which is slow-going but not as treacherous as the mud.

About 90km from Tsau there's a left turning (GPS: GTURN4) to Xhaba borehole. This passes the Xhaba borehole, a satellite cattle post of /Xai/Xai village, after about 26km, and then reaches the hills another 26km later. It's the quickest way to the hills. If you miss this turn-off then continue on to the main turning (GPS: GTURN3), used by the Northern route, above, and take a left there. This is over 150km from Tsau.