If much of the Okavango Delta is the preserve of the privileged few who can afford to fly-in to exclusive safari camps, then the Panhandle presents more egalitarian options. Here you'll find the raw edge of Botswana's safari industry, camps on the edge of the Delta run by idiosyncratic owners or local communities – without marketing aids or slick glossy brochures. This is the Okavango's safari scene as it was 20 years ago!

Go west, into the Kalahari, and it's wilder still. Here there's almost nothing organised, yet the amazing Tsodilo Hills have been declared as Botswana's first world heritage site. Adventurers will want to dig deeper here, reaching the caverns of the Gcwihaba Hills and the remote Aha range.