By air

Virtually all of the visitors to the three lodges here arrive at the airstrip (GPS: KHWAIR), which is just outside Khwai River Lodge. This is a short hop from Kasane, Maun, or any of the other airstrips in the region. There are no facilities at the airstrip; it's just a flatish section of low grass with a windsock next to it.

Driving from North Gate to Savuti, Chobe

Cross North Gate's wooden bridge (GPS: NOGATE) to the north side of the river, and follow the main track through Khwai Village. This bends to the right, and heads roughly northeast, passing the Khwai Airstrip, at (GPS: KHWAIR ) on the right. Near the airstrip, a right turn leads to Khwai River Lodge, while a few kilometres later a second right heads to Machaba.

About 8km after the airstrip, the road forks at (GPS: OKAV24). The branch to the north, signposted to Seronga by one of the park's old green concrete pillar signs, heads off to Selinda Reserve and the northeast side of the Delta. To reach Chobe take the right turn which initially bends east, following the stunningly beautiful Khwai River Valley.

Around 9km after this you technically cross into Chobe National Park and there's a right turn onto a cut-line road which heads due south, marking Moremi's border. This takes about 33km to join the road to Maun near the village of Zankuyo.

Ignoring that right turn, about 16km after OKAV24 the road leaves the river and splits again. Both forks join the Savuti–Maun track: head right for Maun, but left for Savuti. Shortly after you'll cross the Magwikwe Sand Ridge – a relic from the period when central Botswana was covered by the giant super-lake, Lake Makgadikgadi. You may not see the ridge itself, but after 3km stuck in low gears ploughing through thick sand, you'll realise that you've crossed it.

It's about 6km from the base of the sand ridge to Chobe's Mababe Gate (GPS: MABABE), and the earth on some of this road is very fine with a high clay content: hard-baked when dry; sticky and difficult when wet. At the gate, stop and sign in before continuing roughly north towards Savuti.

About 20km north of the Mababe Gate, the road splits. Both forks lead to Savuti. The right fork is the marsh road, which is more scenic, but can be very rutted and bumpy during the dry season, with great views of the marsh. It is certainly going to be the worse of the two during the rainy season, when you'd be wise to take the left fork, the more direct sand ridge road. This stays closer to the Magwikwe Sand Ridge, climbing onto it at one point. It's less interesting, but certainly the better route in the wet.

After about 37km on the sand ridge road, or 44km on the marsh road, these routes converge (GPS: MARSAN) beside Leopard Hill Rock, which is about 5km south of the heart of Savuti.

Driving from North Gate to Xakanaxa

Important note on the road between North Gate and Xakanaxa
Note that between 2000 and (as I write) 2002, the main North Gate–Xakanaxa road has been largely closed because of high water levels. Before setting off along it you should always ask the warden at the camp you are leaving if it's passable. If not then you have no choice but to route via South Gate and the 'central' road through the Mopane Tongue (a total distance of about 72km).

That said, even when blocked by high water levels, the main problems are often in the middle of the route – allowing you to access some of the more northerly game-drive loops from North Gate on a drive from the east. But having seen these, you've then got to re-trace your steps.

This route is really very straightforward. Start from North Gate's wooden bridge and follow the road southwest towards South Gate for less than a kilometre. Here you'll find a substantial right turn signposted to Xakanaxa, heading in a more westerly direction. Follow this and after about 44km it'll lead you straight there, mainly through old, established mopane woodlands.

However, the real joy of this route is the numerous side-loops which detour to the right of the road. There are endless small loops and side-roads, but if you feel lost remember that heading west and south will generally keep you going in the right direction. Heading north will go deeper into the detours and usually bring you back to the Khwai River.

The main problem arises when the tracks are waterlogged. When I drove this route in 1999, most of the loops were fine. A few – often those marked as 'seasonal roads' on Veronica Roodt's map of Moremi (see Further Reading) – were tricky and required one to cross quite deep water in the vehicle. The scenery on the road around Qua Ledibe (Lediba is the local word for lagoon), particularly looking out west towards the Xuku floodplain, was very beautiful as we meandered between the dappled light of the forest and open lagoons.

However, west of Qua Lediba, the road became progressively more difficult, with deeper and deeper stretches of water to cross. Several times we forded water across the road, until one large pool stopped us. Forest to the left and lagoon to the right. There was no easy way around. The track was flat sand; solid not slippery. Vehicle tracks had been this way recently – a good sign.

As we considered our next move, two large trucks, run by a mobile safari operator, approached and drove across, showing us the depth; we crossed safely. We avoided the next pool, but in a third the vehicle lurched alarmingly to the right – my passenger falling across me as I drove. The Land Rover didn't blink though and pulled us through. Nerve-racking when alone, such puddles are more fun with a party of two vehicles, as then one can pull the other out of difficulty if necessary.

Back on the main road, heading west we found a drift, where the road had been washed away. Various alternatives circled off left, finding shallower, but slippier, places to cross. The water at the main road was deeper – but the substrate was more solid. On the whole, a safer bet.

Driving from North Gate to South Gate

Again, this is a very straightforward route, on a very straight road – only without the game drive loops of the previous route. From North Gate's wooden bridge you simply follow a substantial track for about 30km, which heads southwest, directly towards South Gate (GPS: SOGATE)

Driving from North Gate to Maun

This isn't a route that people often want to take, but the quickest way is probably to follow the first part of the North Gate to Savuti instructions, above. Then around 9km after (GPS: OKAV24), turn right onto the cut-line which heads due south. This takes about 33km to join the road to Maun near the village of Zankuyo.

Note that crossing the Khwai River here can be tricky, and this road is especially sticky and difficult during the rainy season.