There are now three routes into the Tsodilo Hills from the main Shakawe-Sehithwa road. All the tracks described here are difficult, sandy 4WD-only routes that will take you about two and a half to three hours to complete, despite the relatively short distances involved. Expect to use your low-range gears a lot in the sand, and travel as early in the day as you can (driving is easier when the sand is cooler).

All of these approaches boast an unusual type of corrugation. Rather than the usual high-frequency vehicle rattle, there are corrugations here which make the whole vehicle bounce up and down. If you attempt to drive over this faster than about 10km/h, you find your heads hitting the ceiling. It's painful, but ensures that getting to the hills is always a long and tedious drive.

Whilst complaining about the road – look on the bright side. Firstly, if you have to make an effort to get there, you should appreciate it more. Secondly, these corrugations ensure that visitors will never over-run the hills, as only those who are really keen to be here will stomach the journey!

Although animals aren't prolific in this area, there is big game here, including elephants. So drive carefully because trying to beat a hasty retreat from a surprised elephant whilst your vehicle is in thick sand simply isn't very practical!

That said, the main danger here is fire from grass seeds and stems blocking up your vehicle's radiator and collecting near its hot exhaust system. So if you're driving here, your must take steps to prevent this.
Considering the three possible driving routes, from north to south:

Northern approach

The turning from the main road is immediately next to the south side of the Somachima Veterinary Fence (GPS: VET-SA). This is about 17.4km south of Shakawe. This route follows the fence for a little while, before forking off left. It takes about 36km to reach the hills.

This used to be the best of the routes to the hills. However, on my last visit in February 2001, I tried this route in reverse, from the hills to the road. To find it take the track between the Male and Female Hills, head for n LITURN 18°45.538'S, 21°45.109'E, and then ignore the turning right to the start of the Lion Trail. However, when I tried the track was very overgrown as it left the hills. It didn't appear to have been used for some time, and wasn't easily navigable. So unless this has improved, this northern track will probably swiftly become impassable and vanish back into the bush.

Central approach

This is a relatively new road to the hills, that has been built fairly recently. A lot of vegetation has been cleared for this along the way, and there's one track going in either direction. However, both are still very slow, bumpy sand tracks, and this route has the limited, formal character of a cut line through the bush. So though perhaps a slightly faster route than either of the two older approaches, I prefer the older approaches. Note that in mid-2002 there were rumours that this track was about to be surfaced with gravel, though old hands aren't holding their breath in anticipation.

The central route starts on the main road at (GPS: T2TURN). This is 4.8km southeast of the 'Tsodilo View' (GPS: TSVIEW), which is signposted on the road, and almost 15km south of the Somachima Veterinary Fence (GPS: VET-SA).

From there the tracks head southwest beside each other, averaging a bearing of about 230˚, and to the left of the hills. It passes around the southern side of the Male Hill and joins the southern approach at (GPS: FORKRD), about 34km from the tarred road. You then bear right to reach the main gate.

To leave the hills this way, find the main gate (GPS: TSGATE) and head south of the Male Hill, following the track slightly south of east. Shortly the road forks, (GPS: FORKRD), and you take the left hand track which bends around the Male Hill towards T2TURN heading northeast at a bearing of about 50˚.

Southern approach

This begins about 10km south of Sepupa, but first you get yourself onto the untarred track that is marked on the Shell map as joining Etsha with Sepupa. To do this it'll be easiest to head to Sepupa and then, about 500m south of the turning to the village itself, take the turnoff (GPS: T1TURN) that leads south-southwest of the main road. This is, in fact, part of the old road up the Panhandle.

About 9.5km later there's a clearly signposted turning (GPS: T3TURN) on to a track that leads west to the hills. Follow this and after a further 22km this passes through a small cattle post. Finally you'll approach the hills from the south side, with the Male Hill the first to come into view. Within sight of the hills you pass a fork in the road (GPS: FORKRD), and soon reach the main thatched 'gate' turning (GPS: TSGATE) about 55.5km after leaving the road at T3TURN.

If you're leaving the hills by this route then simply find the main gate (TSGATE) and then head out south of the Male Hill and follow the track slightly south of east from there (a bearing averaging about 95˚). Keep straight (right) where the road forks (GPS: FORKRD), and head fairly directly for (GPS: T3TURN).

Hitchhiking

I wouldn't even entertain trying to walk or hitchhike here. With more animals around than vehicles, and no water, it would be unpleasant at best, and life-threatening at worst.

By air

There's a good bush airstrip at the hills, so it's quite possible (albeit at significant cost) to charter a plane to get you here from Maun, or anywhere else in the region. However, once on the ground you'll usually want a 4WD to get around the base of the hills, and to the start of the various walking trails.

You may be able to persuade one of the Panhandle's lodges to send a 4WD with a driver for your use. However, the drive is so tough on their vehicles that they are reluctant to do this if you're not also spending time staying at their lodges. So however you look at this, it won't be a cheap option.

Approaching from the air you'll appreciate the hills' uniqueness within the desert, though you'll miss the excitement as they're first sighted over the treetops – and the sheer sense of achievement of having completed the long drive here.