Leroo-La-Tau and Xwaraga are both on the western bank of the Boteti, opposite the park. They can be contacted through Traction Safaris, Suite 29 c/o Postnet, P.Bag 114, Maun; tel/fax: 668407; email: 2attract@bushmail.net; web: www.lltlodge.com

Khumaga and Njuca Hills campsites are run by the national parks, and should be booked in advance in Maun.

Leroo-La-Tau Lodge
(7 tents)
Having opened in 1998, this lodge deserves to be better known. It is situated (GPS: LEROOL) at the eastern end of a bend in the Boteti River. It is outside the park, yet surrounded by it on three sides.

Accommodation here is in one of seven large Meru-style tents, built on raised wooden platforms. Most are built into the tree line, overlooking the Boteti's channel, whilst a few are set back in the bush.

Each has a large veranda with chairs and table outside, and two double beds inside – complete with high quality down duvets and quilts. These are comfortably furnished with a chair, dressing table and bedside tables, with a torch, and various toiletries and insect repellents provided. At the back of this, still under a shading canvas roof, is a toilet, shower and washbasin area, enclosed within an inner tent of mosquito netting. The hot water is very quick, though the water is mineral water, and so smells slightly of sulphur due to the natural chemicals in the area's ground water.

The main lodge has one side largely made of glass, overlooking a large lawn (with small swimming pool) which leads down to the banks of the Boteti River. At one end of this is a bar, and above that a comfy sitting area with a video recorder (and a library of wildlife videos), and a look-out window. In the centre is a large and rather beautiful wooden dining table, and at the end is a comfy sitting area with a curio shop (which also sells some good books)
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Activities centre on game drives and night drives from the lodge. Generally they operate in a relatively narrow neck of land enclosed by a loop of the Boteti. This juts into the park, and is about 10km by 4–5km, though does have lots of riverfront – which is where the game is usually concentrated. This has the advantage of not being liable for park fees. In addition to these, they also run 'cultural trips' to the local villages.

The lodge can also be used as a base for trips into Nxai, Makgadikgadi Pans and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve; expect trips to cost around US$220 for an overnight, two-day/one-night mobile trip, whilst going for longer, or with more people, can prove even better value. Expect to sleep on comfy bed-rolls in dome tents, eat around the campfire and generally get involved. Though safari activities on the west bank of the Boteti are included in the rate, if you want to take a day-trip into the park itself these cost US$85 per person. (If you're going to do this, then I'd do it properly; spend two days there and make an overnight trip of it!)

Leroo-La-Tau is a good-quality lodge in an area that can provide remarkable game spectacles. It's relatively inexpensive for Botswana, largely because it's not well known and without an airstrip it's rarely included in 'fly-in' safari circuits of the country.

Xwaraga Campsite
This lovely bush site is a few minutes' walk from Leroo-La-Tau Lodge. It has five cleared pitches beneath camelthorn (Acacia erioloba) trees, each of which used to have an adjacent water standpipe... until the local elephants got wind of them. There are also two simple thatched chalets, each of which has mosquito gauze on the windows, four beds and an en-suite shower and toilet at the back. Each comes supplied with cooking equipment and linen; ideal for self-catering guests.


Khumaga Campsite
Khumaga, sometimes written 'Xhumaga,' stands within the park near the east bank of the Boteti River (GPS: KHUMAG), about 4km south of Leroo-La-Tau. This site usually has water available, and sometimes working cold showers and flush toilets. One of the park's two scout camps is here.

Njuca Hills Campsite
Njuca Hills Campsite (GPS: NJUCA) is located in the heart of the park about 38km east of Khumaga, and it's totally different. It's slightly elevated (no more than about 20m) on one of a series of low, fossilised dunes and here you'll find no water and even less firewood. The campsite is very basic, with just a long-drop toilet surrounded by what looks like a screen sprayed with concrete. Expect the main wildlife here to be barking geckos and perhaps the odd curious yellow mongoose.

Just to emphasise the safety issues raised about travelling in any of the pans, recent visitors Richard and Vikki Threlfall wrote to me: 'We broke down at Njuca Hills Campsite, and were not found until the third morning after discovering the problem! And then it was only pure chance.' Note that this happened at one of only two official campsites in the park, and realise that it would have taken a full-scale air search to find them if they'd been off the main routes.