Mombo and Chief's share a concession within Moremi, but they are about 25km apart – which is a long way in the Okavango. Hence, unless they want to cross paths, you'll never normally see one of the vehicles from the other camp.

Concession history

Since the mid-1980s the rights to run Mombo were owned by Jao Safaris (now defunct). They sub-leased this to many safari companies including Ker & Downey, Bonadventure (who were one of the main tour agencies when I first visited Maun in 1987) and, lastly, Wilderness Safaris. During this time, and especially the last few years, it gained a first-class reputation for game, helped by an exceedingly large and successful pack of wild dogs.

When Jao Safaris' lease expired in 1998, there was clearly going to be very stiff competition for this area. Because it was recognised as such a prime area, the Land Board (ie: the government body responsible) allowed for two sites to be put up for tender, at opposite ends of the concession. About 29 companies entered. There was tremendous competition: the best proposal and overall management plan would win.

Eventually two bids were accepted; one from Wilderness Safaris and another from A&K (whose Botswana operations have recently become 'Sanctuary Lodges'). Each needed to promise the government the highest possible revenue, as well as the best (that is, most sustainable and productive) management plan.

To achieve this, they both arrived at the obvious solution: each built one of the country's most upmarket camps, and attached an appropriately high price tag to it. It was the only way to make financial sense with such high concession fees.

Thus the new, much more luxurious Mombo came into being, near the old Mombo site, and Chief's Camp was built south of that, on the northwestern side of Chief's Island. The tender process had maximised the government's revenues, and pushed part of the area's tourism a step further upmarket.

Getting there and getting away

Only pre-booked guests flying in visit this area, as there is no practical dry-land access to Chief's Island. Driving here isn't an option. Each camp has its own airstrip on Chief's Island; Mombo's airstrip is found at (GPS:MOMBOA).

When to visit

Because the focus here is firmly on game viewing, the dry season is the obvious time to visit. That's when the game is at its most visible and most dense. That said, from July to October the camps (especially Mombo) have substantial 'high season supplements', which can make the costs at other times of the year seem very attractive.

If you decide to come at a less popular, and cheaper, time then remember that Chief's Island is a large, permanent island with its own large, permanent population of game. Thus you'll still see some first-rate game even if the game viewing isn't quite as good as it would have been during October.

What to see and do

Game drives are the main activity here, though both camps are constricted to some extent by the park's rules. Night drives, fishing and off-road driving are not allowed – though the camps have been campaigning to have these rules softened. Short 'nature walks' are conducted, although these are restricted as the guides are not allowed to carry rifles under the park's current rules.

In addition to drives, Chief's also offers mokoro trips. When the floods arrive, up to 70% of Chief's Camp's network of roads become covered in water, and mokoro trips can start off right there at the lodge.