Botswana Travel Guide
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Savuti Safari

Botswana Travel Guide

Savuti Safari



(12 rooms)
Savute Safari Lodge (GPS: SAVSAF) opened in March 1999 and most of its visitors reach here by plane, like those of the Elephant Camp. It's been built right next to the site of the old Lloyd's Camp, and so the local wildlife is exceptionally relaxed with people – to the point that lions are occasionally found sleeping on the paths between rooms. (As with most wildlife camps in Botswana, guests here are always escorted by the staff if walking around the camp after dark.)

The Safari Lodge's rooms are unique in Botswana. In size and quality they're not dissimilar to the Elephant Camp's rooms – at least 16m long and 6m wide, with double or twin beds, a huge, high thatched ceiling, wooden structure, simple baths, roman blinds, and all based on a slightly raised, smooth wooden floor. Most of the walls are wooden, but one side of each chalet is glass sliding doors. (Those down by the river, with one long side of glass, are certainly the most spectacular.) Inside the glass doors are mesh mosquito screens.

However, the décor is the shock – as it's modern Scandinavian in appearance: bright, mostly light colours, clean lines and functional designs. If you're used to shades of green and khaki, this will surprise you. 'Ikea meets Habitat' was the description of one guest, referring to its similarity with some European furniture stores.

Each chalet has lots of space. There's a comfortable two-seater couch and an armchair, and around are thoughtful touches including chic lamps with arresting blue shades and a tea/coffee maker. Expect lots of white with flashes of bright colours and especially a strong, royal blue. On the veranda are safari chairs and roll-down blinds designed to cover the windows. The white-tiled bathroom is modern with a sink, a glass-screened shower, a flush toilet and a large mirror. Some have large floor-to-ceiling picture windows which can be unnerving until you realise that you're not overlooked.

The bedroom has twin or double beds with quality linen surrounded by a (cleverly designed) walk-in mosquito net, below a ceiling fan. There is no air conditioning in the chalets, though their design does help to moderate the excesses of the climate. During the day there is electricity from a generator, while at night the chalet's main lights work from a back-up battery system.

Hilary Bradt and Janice Booth visited here recently, only to be woken by the yelps of wild dog which had made a kill directly under their chalet. They watched as the dogs were joined by a cohort of Savuti's numerous hyena, who then challenged the dogs for their booty – dim shapes wheeling and criss-crossing in the moonlight.

The lodge's dining room has a high, thatched ceiling, tiled floors and light-coloured wooden tables with solid chairs, pretty tablecloths and a few plants around. However, meals are often served outside, on a new covered terrace which has a direct view of a waterhole in the channel. (Much to the delight of a local genet who often drops in for the buffet.)

There's a small library and various board games to pass the heat of the day, and a hi-tech Jetmaster fireplace in the centre of the room for cold winter mornings. The lodge's curio shop has a reasonable range of handicrafts, clothing and local jewellery. A small pool, surrounded by decking has been built overlooking the channel, where the lodge pumps its own waterhole.

If you're staying in several camps, and/or come to Africa on safari often, then the lodge's design works and will probably seem like a refreshing change. Activities are limited to 4WD game drives, and the occasional wander to see a Bushman painting. The young guides here when I last visited were keen on their nature, and enthusiastic about finding it.


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