Most of the larger groups of camps have offices outside of Botswana who hold their booking sheets and take reservations. These usually work largely with the overseas travel trade, which has special contracts with them. So, paradoxically, booking a fly-in safari through one of these offices below in southern Africa is usually more expensive than arranging it through a specialist tour operator based outside Africa.

Illustrating this clearly, Botswana's largest operator, Okavango Wilderness Safaris (which runs about 19 camps in Botswana), comments on their website that they have deliberately not included any of their contact details on their site. They add that they
believe that bookings should be done in your home country through a specialist travel agent or tour operator. There are a number of superb Africa specialist travel agencies and tour operators who love Africa – and 'talk, breathe, eat and sleep' the continent. These people have created businesses in their home countries specialising in selling quality safaris in Africa. We suggest you book your safari through one of these companies.

However, if you want a direct contact, then the booking offices of some of the larger groups are outside Botswana (most started off based in Johannesburg, South Africa, for ease of communications):

CC Africa (including AfroVentures)
Their main booking office is in Johannesburg: PBag X27, Benmore 2010, South Africa; tel: (27) 11 809 4300; fax: (27) 809 4400; email: bookings@ccafrica.com; web: www.ccafrica.com

Desert & Delta
Their main booking office is in Johannesburg: PO Box 130555, Bryanston 20201, South Africa; tel: (27) 11 706 0861/2; fax: (27) 11 706 0863; email: reservations@desertanddelta.com; web: www.desertdelta.com

Orient-Express Safaris
Their main booking office is in Johannesburg: PO Box 786432, Sandton 2146, South Africa; tel: (27) 11 481 6052; fax: (27) 11 481 6065; email: reservations@gametrackers.co.za; web: www.gametrackers.orient-express.com

Ker & Downey
Trips can be booked through their Maun office, or through their US booking office at 2825 Wilcrest Drive, Suite 600, Houston, Texas 77042-6007; tel: (713) 917 0048; fax: (713) 917 0123; email: info@kerdowney.com; web: www.kerdowney.com

Landela Safaris
Landela House, 29 Mazowe St, PO Box 66293 Kopje, Harare, Zimbabwe; tel: (263) 4 734043-6 or 706532 or 708377 or 708388; fax: (263) 4 708119; email: bookings@landela.co.zw; web: www.landela.co.zw. Landela started in 1990 and is based in Zimbabwe. Landela Lodge, near Harare, was its first property but it soon expanded to run a string of camps including Chokomella near Hwange, Gache Cache on Lake Kariba and Sekuti's Drift, near Victoria Falls. As above, their head office is still in Harare – the range of phone numbers given illustrating the problems of getting telephone lines, and getting them working, in that city today! In 1998 they branched out into Botswana, taking on Ranns Camp and Xudum in NG29, which had been hunting camps, and shortly after that Gubanare in NG30. More recently they have taken over Chobe Valley Lodge, in an unusual spot near the Zimbabwean border, outside Kasane. Neither Landela's operations, nor their locations, are top-of-the-range – but then neither are their prices. A typical 7-day/6-night itinerary costs US$2,060/2,860 per person sharing/single from July to October, or US$1,360 per person sharing or single during the rest of the year.

Wilderness Safaris (aka Okavango Wilderness Safaris)
Their main booking office is in Johannesburg: PO Box 5219, Rivonia 2128, Johannesburg, South Africa; tel: (27) 11 807 1800; fax: (27) 11 807 2110; email: enquiry@wilderness.za; web: www.wilderness-safaris.com

Sanctuary Lodges
Their main booking office is in Johannesburg: PO Box 782607, Sandton 2146, Johannesburg, South Africa; tel: (27) 11 781 1497; fax: (27) 11 787 7658; email: southernafrica@sanctuarylodges.com; web: www.sanctuarylodges.com

Which tour operator?

Botswana looks on the surface like an easy country to sell, and you'll find scores of brochures that feature a trip or two there. The vast majority will include only camps from one local operator – perhaps using only Wilderness Safaris, or only Gametrackers' camps, or visiting nothing but Desert & Delta places. This is a really bad sign, as no one operator in Botswana has a monopoly of the best camps.

However, start asking detailed questions about the alternatives and you'll rapidly sort the best from the rest. Don't let anyone convince you that there are only half a dozen decent safari camps in Botswana; that's rubbish. If your operator doesn't know most of the camps in this book – and offer a wide choice to suit you – then find one that does. Booking a fly-in trip with one of the top overseas tour operators will usually cost you the same or less than if you contacted Botswana's camps directly – plus you should have independent advice, full financial protection, and experts to make all the arrangements for you.

Here I must, as the author, admit a personal interest in the tour operating business. I organise and personally run the southern African operations of the UK operator Sunvil Africa (tel: 020 8232 9777; fax: 020 8568 8330; email: africa@sunvil.co.uk; web: www.sunvil.co.uk/africa). We are currently one of the leading tour operators from the UK to Botswana – based on my team's detailed personal knowledge of the country. We organise trips for travellers to Africa from all over the world, especially the UK and America.

Our fly-in trips start at about US$3,375/£2,250 per person for a 12-night/13-day safari, including flights from London, accommodation, meals, drinks, laundry and game activities. Call us for a free, detailed colour brochure, or you can download one directly from our website.

For a fair comparison, I recommend that you contact the best tour operators to Botswana, who include:

UK
Aardvark Safaris
RBL House, Ordnance Rd, Tidworth, Hants SP9 7QD; tel: (01980) 849160; fax: (01980) 849161; email: mail@aardvarksafaris.com; web: www.aardvarksafaris.com. Recently founded, small upmarket operator featuring much of Africa including Madagascar, with good knowledge of Botswana.

Abercrombie & Kent
Sloane Square House, Holbein Place, London SW1W 8NS; tel: 0845 0700 610; fax: 0845 0700 607; email: info@abercrombiekent.co.uk; web: www.abercrombiekent.co.uk. Long-established, large, posh operator worldwide, with a wide choice of Africa trips. (Note that Botswana's Sanctuary Lodges are owned by A&K's owner.)

Africa Explorer
5 Strand on the Green, Chiswick, London W4 3PQ; tel: 020 8987 8742; email: africa.explorer@easynet.co.uk; web: www.africa-explorer.co.uk. Tiny but knowledgeable company that has unusual, large six-wheeled self-contained vehicles for hire across northern Botswana.

Cazenove & Loyd
9 Imperial Studios, 3–11 Imperial Rd, London SW6 2AG; tel: 020 7384 2332; fax: 020 7384 2399; email: safaris@caz-loyd.com; web: www.caz-loyd.com. Bespoke posh operator with tailor-made trips to East/southern Africa and South America. Good local knowledge and service with a high price tag.

Cox & Kings
Gordon House, 10 Greencoat Place, London SW1P 1PH; tel: 020 7873 5000; fax: 020 7630 6038; email: cox.kings@coxandkings.co.uk; web: www.coxandkings.co.uk. Long-established operator famed for its Indian trips. Also features more recent programmes to the Middle and Far East, Latin America and Africa, including fly-in trips to Botswana.

Hartley Safaris
The Old Chapel, Chapel Lane, Hackthorn, Lincs LN2 3PN; tel: 01673 861600; fax: 01673 861666; web: www.hartleys-safaris.co.uk. Old-school, established tailor-made specialists to East/southern Africa, and Indian Ocean Islands – with close historical connections to Botswana.

Nomad Africa Travel
Smugglers Cottage, Church Rd, Westbourne, Emsworth, Hants PO10 8UA; tel/fax: 01243 373929; email: info@nomadafricantravel.co.uk; web: www.nomadafraicantravel.co.uk. Small operator concentrating mainly on set-departure tours to southern Africa, including camping trips around Botswana.

Okavango Tours and Safaris
Marlborough House, 298 Regents Park Rd, London N3 2TJ; tel: 020 8343 3283; fax: 020 8343 3287. Established specialists to East/southern Africa, and Indian Ocean. Not part of the Maun company of the same name, but linked indirectly to Delta Camp and Oddballs.

Rainbow Tours
64 Essex Rd, London N1 8LR; tel: 020 7226 1004; fax: 020 7226 2621; email: info@rainbowtours.co.uk; web: www.rainbowtours.co.uk. Established specialists to southern Africa and Madagascar with a strong ethical streak and a varied Botswana programme.

Safari Consultants
Orchard House, Upper Rd, Little Cornard, Suffolk CO10 0NZ; tel: 01787 228494; fax: 01787 228096; web: www.safari-consultants.co.uk. Very 'old school' tailor-made specialists to East/southern Africa and Indian Ocean with a competent Botswana programme.

Safari Drive
Wessex House, 127 High St, Hungerford, Berks RG17 0DL; tel: 01488 681611; fax: 01488 685055; email: safari_drive@compuserve.com; web: www.safaridrive.com. Specialist African operator with first-class knowledge of Botswana. They concentrate on self-drive trips using well-equipped Land Rovers.

Steppes Africa
The Travel House, 51 Castle St, Cirencester, Glos GL7 1QD; tel: 01285 650011; fax: 01285 885888; email: safari@steppesafrica.co.uk; web: www.artoftravel.co.uk. Originally founded as 'Art of Travel', this posh tailor-made specialist features most of East, central and southern Africa, plus Mauritius and the Seychelles.

Sunvil Africa
Upper Square, Old Isleworth, Middx TW7 7BJ; tel: 020 8232 9777; fax: 020 8568 8330; email: africa@sunvil.co.uk; web: www.sunvil.co.uk/africa. This is a team of enthusiastic Africa experts run by Chris McIntyre – this book's author. I like to think they have the best fly-in and self-drive trips to Botswana!

Tim Best Travel
68 Old Brompton Rd, London SW7 3LQ; tel: 020 7591 0300; fax: 020 7591 0301; email: info@timbesttravel.com; web: www.timbesttravel.co.uk. Bespoke operator concentrating on South America, the Indian Ocean and Africa, including upmarket fly-in lodges in Botswana.

Tribes Travel
12 The Business Centre, Earl Soham, Woodbridge, Suffolk IP13 7SA; tel: 01728 685971; fax: 01728 685973; email: bradt@tribes.co.uk; web: www.tribes.co.uk. Not a Botswana specialist, though an interesting selection of trips worldwide, based on fair-trade principles, include some innovative Botswana options.

Worldwide Journeys & Expeditions
27 Vanston Place, London SW6 1AZ; tel: 020 7386 4646; fax: 020 7381 0836; email: enquiry@worldwidejourneys.co.uk; web: www.worldwidejourneys.co.uk. Wide-ranging operator with programmes to Asia, Central and South America and Africa from the Nile to fly-in lodges in Botswana.

Whoever you book through, make sure first that the company has in place a 'bond' to protect your money in case they go bust. The most usual form of this in the UK is the ATOL licence; if a company doesn't have one of these then question them very carefully indeed. All the companies above have good track records, and currently have ATOL bonds for your protection.

Other tour operators who feature Botswana include:

UK
African Odyssey
1 St Margaret's Terrace, Cheltenham GL50 4DT; tel: 01242 224482; fax: 01242 253078; email: tca@africanodyssey.co.uk; web: www.africanodyssey.co.uk

Africa Travel Centre
Leigh St, London WC1H 9EW; tel: 020 7387 1211; fax: 020 7383 7512; email: sales@africatravel.co.uk; web:www.africatravel.co.uk

Gane & Marshall
98 Crescent Rd, New Barnet, Herts EN4 9RJ; tel: 020 8441 9592; fax: 020 8441 7376; email: holidays@ganeandmarshall.co.uk; web: www.ganeandmarshall.co.uk

Oasis Safaris
POBox 26905, London SE21 8WE; tel: 020 8766 6405; fax: 020 8670 6105; email: judith@oasis-safari.com; web:www.oasis-safari.com. In Botswana: PBag BO59, Maun; tel: 00 267 686 3011; fax: 00 267 686 3011; email: oasis.safaris@info.bw

Somerville Wood (Drive Africa)
The Nightingale Centre, 8 Balham Hill, London SW12 9EA; tel: 020 8675 3974; fax: 020 8675 3913; email: info@somervillewood.com; web: www.driveafrica.com or www.somervillewood.com

Wildlife Worldwide
Chameleon House, 162 Selsdon Rd, South Croydon, Surrey CR2 6PJ; tel: 020 8667 9158; fax: 020 8667 1960; email: sales@wildlifeworldwide.com; web: www.wildlifeworldwide.com

World Odyssey
Ltd 1a St Martins House, St Martin's Gate, Worcester WR1 2DT; tel: 01905 731373; fax: 01905 726872; email: info@world-odyssey.com; web: www.world-odyssey.com

USA
Adventure Center
1311 63rd St, Suite 200, Emeryville, California 94608; tel: 510 654 1879; fax: 510 654 4200

Adventure Travel Desk
(ATD) 308 Commonwealth Rd, Wayland, MA 01778; tel: 800 552 0300 or 508 653 4600; fax: 508 655 5672

David Anderson Safaris
4635 Via Vistosa, Santa Barbara, CA 93110; tel: 800 733 1789 or 805 967 1712; fax: 805 964 8285

Australia
The Classic Safari Company
Town Hall House, Level 11/456 Kent St, Sydney NSW 2000; tel: 01 800 351 088 or 02 9264 5710; fax 02 9267 3047

African Wildlife Safaris
1st Floor, 259 Coventry St, South Melbourne, Victoria 3205; tel: 03 9696 2899; fax: 03 9696 4937

Tricks of the trade

If you're looking for a company who knows what they're doing, then look very carefully at their brochure. Start with the text: is it factually correct? If not, that's a really bad sign. Is it free of clichés? If so that's a rare but very positive sign. A more subtle check is to look at their pictures. Notice if they have used pictures which are 'standard', which you've seen in a dozen other brochures, or if they're one-off shots that you don't see anywhere else.

Companies with the best local knowledge have staff who spend a lot of time visiting Africa. They do this because they love it, and not just because it's their work. Most will enjoy taking their own pictures, even if they're sometimes not quite as professional as they might be. Thus in their brochures the pictures will usually be originals, and the company's team will usually be able to tell you where and when most of them were taken.

Companies who don't visit so often will use pictures taken for them by people in Botswana. These same pictures are usually copied to many overseas operators and agents – who then reproduce them in their own brochures and promotional work. That's why you'll often see these same 'standard' pictures in half a dozen totally different brochures. Usually this indicates that the company producing the brochure hasn't visited the place for themselves – and so won't be able to advise you from firsthand experience.

Finally, when discussing trips, don't hesitate to ask the person helping you if they have been to this area/lodge – and if so, when. You'll always get the best advice (and the best chance of problem-free trips) from people who know the places that you're thinking of going to personally. Make sure you insist on this.