On the south side of this concession, Camp Okavango (GPS: CAMPOK 19°08.118’S; 23°06.035’E) stands on the west side of Nxaragha Island amidst floodplains, lagoons and waterways. Because of its location, Camp Okavango is one of the Delta’s easiest camps in the permanent swamps to arrange to visit by boat (see Getting there and getting away, above). However, it’s a measure of the meandering geography of the Delta’s waterways that although its sister-camp, Camp Moremi, is only about 33km away as the egret flies, the most direct route by boat (coincidentally, via the Gcodikwe Lagoon) takes slightly over 60km.
‘Camp O’ as it’s usually known was started by an American woman, Jessie Niel, in the early 1980s, and was swiftly followed by Camp Moremi in around 1985. She ran and marketed them as a pair under the banner of Desert & Delta Safaris until, around 1993 or 1994, the whole operation was taken over by a group called Chobe Holdings, associated with Chobe Game Lodge and AfroVentures – though the name was kept.
Camp Okavango is quite a large camp by Okavango standards, and its spacious thatched dining, lounge and bar area reflect this. All open out onto a large area of lawn, which is often the venue for meals outside – usually accompanied by lots of candles and flaming torches!
For seclusion during the day, there’s a raised viewing hide that’s been built into a sausage tree (Kigelia africana) and three knobthorn trees (Acacia nigrescens) near the end of the jetty. It’s a good spot to relax with comfy chairs, and the view over the papyrus and reeds might interest patient birdwatchers. The plunge pool, sundeck or the sprinkling of hammocks around camp, however, are probably better venues for relaxation.
Sand paths link the tents and main areas – which is a pleasant change from the usual acres of hardwood walkways. Camp Okavango has twelve large Meru-style tents, each raised up on individual wooden platforms. These are very comfortably furnished, with twin or double beds, crisp linen, a teak wardrobe, luggage rack, dressing table, bedside pedestals and canvas safari chairs. You’ll also find rugs on the floor and co-ordinated linens and blinds to cover the mesh windows. Each has an en-suite bathroom with a hot shower, washbasin and flush toilet.
As well as the tents, the camp also has one suite available, which they call the ‘Okavango Suite’. This is the old house of the camp’s former owner, Jessie Neil. It’s a unique, open-plan bungalow that’s clearly been built to a personal specification. At its centre is a lounge with old-style settees and, nestling in a wooden room-divider, a TV and video. On one side of this is the large bedroom, dominated by a bed shrouded in mosquito netting. On the other is a dining room built for entertaining (though if staying in the suite then even just two guests can arrange to have dinner served here). It’s all floored, panelled and furnished in wood.
However, the suite’s pièce de résistance is its bathroom. Down a few steps from the bedroom you’ll find a black bathroom suite lit by recessed lighting in a room lined with black tiles and mirrors. Urban gothic, circa 1970, in the heart of the Okavango. It’s wonderful: don’t miss it!
In addition to boat and mokoro trips, bush walks on the islands are possible, though see my comments on walking trips in Botswana before you set off. Camps like this which concentrate on water activities tend to have a slower pace than those which also offer game drives; you’ll have more time to just relax. As befits this, the tents also have their own tea- and coffee-making facilities and even towelling robes. The team here are also adept at varying the routine, and including the odd torch-lit barbecue on islands away from camp, and other bush surprises.
The camp’s curio shop is notable for a fine collection of baskets, all made by the staff, with the proceeds going to them. There are also a few books, T-shirts and film.