With a large number of tracks in the area, I have not even tried to describe them all in detail here. However, if you're driving around by yourself, rather than with a local guide who knows the area well, then navigation issues should preoccupy you! Outside the national park, visiting the pans is all about exploring for yourself. If you want set routes to follow, perhaps it's not for you.

If you're ready for a small expedition, then take note of the highlights and landmarks mentioned here, with GPS co-ordinates, and use the maps to keep some realistic idea of where you are. That said, because of the size of the pans and its very remote situation, you must follow some basic safety rules:

• Take at least one reliable GPS with you – and many more batteries than you think you'll need.
• Carry much more fuel that you expect to use.
• Carry enough water and food for your whole time in the pans area, plus a few days safety margin.
• Travel with a minimum of two fully equipped 4WDs, and preferably also a satellite phone.
• Arrange a rendezvous for when you leave the pans, and someone to raise the alarm if you don't arrive. Leave a rough route plan with them.

It's difficult for me to emphasise enough just how dangerous the pans can be. There are periodic deaths of people who visit the area without the proper back-up and preparation, and then get into difficulties.

It's different from many areas in Botswana because:

• The sun is merciless on the pan's surface; there's absolutely no shade.
• If you break through the crust of the pans to the wet silt beneath, then getting out is very difficult, even with a second vehicle. Remember: there will be no wood around, or branches to put under the wheels.
• There are so many different tracks on the pans (each diverging vehicle makes a new one), that often there simply isn't a 'right' track which most vehicles take. Thus, it may be weeks or months before someone takes the same route that you do, and passes you.