(13 tents) Moremi Safaris, PO Box 2757, Cramerview 2060, South Africa; tel: (2711) 465 3842/3; fax: (2711) 465 3779; email: moremi@yebo.co.za
Less than a kilometre northeast of Camp Moremi, Xakanaxa has long been run by Bob and Flo Flaxman. It's a classic old camp, and one of the few independents in northern Botswana, (ie: camps that aren't run by a large company as part of a group). In the last few years their lounge/dining room area and reception had a major fire, but the camp's been rebuilt with energy and has bounced back.

Twelve of the tents here are traditional Meru-style tents which all stand on wooden decks, with verandas which overlook the lagoon. Inside these you'll find solid wooden twin beds and, at the back of the tent, a hot shower, handbasin and flush toilet. The whole of the tent, and the toilet and shower behind, is covered by a large canvas roof on to which, when I last visited, they were experimenting with innovative ways of spraying water, to cool the air inside. An unusual thirteenth chalet has eight beds (complete with its own lounge, dining room and pool) which is sometimes used by families or small groups.

Xakanaka's raised, thatched dining area overlooks the lagoon. It's memorable for a long table, made from reclaimed old railway sleepers, on which dinners are served, lit by candlelight.

There's a swimming pool here, and the whole camp is surrounded by a high, 3-strand electric fence. This is designed purely to keep elephants out of the camp, which can be destructive to the trees as well as dangerous. Xakanaxa is better than most camps in Botswana at catering for families and children.

Activities from here are 4WD game drives and boat trips onto the lagoon – though if you're combining this with a trip to Camp Okavango, then you'll stick mainly to game drives here.